The Island of São Vicente:
Mindelo, Part I – Behave
I visited only couple of towns in São Vicente, which is dominated by Mindelo – perky, cosmopolitan and pretty.
Mindelo is most lively city in Cape Verde by a mile. They party hard in Mindelo so get ready to party hard. On the other hand if you aren’t partying type you’d find Mindelo refreshingly normal with nice restaurants, good hotels, normal variety of services, full of happy people and easy on the eye. If you doing some serious travelling, Mindelo would be your natural break from that serious travelling.
Still Mindelo is a relatively small town so don’t expect any strip bars, in fact don’t even expect one. It used to have two but apparently the city couldn’t commercially sustain them so they closed down. Moreover strip joints are just not the Cape Verdean way and you know how it is in Rome, right? The faster you adapt to the Roman way the easier you’d find your time in Cape Verde to be.
A bit on hotels:
Mindelo has great variety of hotels from more posh and centrally located Hotel Mindelo or Porto Grande to countless basic accommodations. I stayed in Residencial Jenny. Not bad middle of the road place with friendly English speaking staff but get a room with a view. You’d enjoy those evenings on the balcony whether alone or not.
Also widely recommended is Casa Royal but not necessarily for its girl-friendliness. Not that it isn’t girl-friendly but I just don’t know. I just know that many people who stayed there liked rooms, food, breakfast, and live music there. I didn’t get a chance to eat there so I don’t know. I know that if you’re lucky enough to be able to book it for Carnival –you’d get a front row to the proceedings. There’d be a lot of talking of Carnival here but a bit later.
A bit on food:
I spent most of my days outside in Café Del Mar, popular café in front of the small park on Avenida Marginal, large street that snakes along the Mindelo shoreline. Café del Mar is popular with visitors, expatriates and well-to-do locals. It has inside and outside sitting and good but not overly imposing view. Coffee is good and food is good enough.
Many of my evenings I spent sipping drinks at the bar on Praca Nova, Mindelo’s main square across from Porto Grande hotel. There is a bar in the middle of the square; I don’t remember its name but you can’t miss it. It only has outside sitting and takes up good chunk of the square. Food is ok but you’re not there for food. Some websites claim that it’s the world’s smallest bar. Whatever.
Food. There are some good restaurants in town. All restaurants in the city’ Marina serve good food. Café del Mar and nearby Nautilus are ok. Great food at Mindelo’s main hotels like Porto Grande and Hotel Mindelo across the street. Great tapas at Casa Branca which also is very good hotel near to where I stayed.
I recommend coffee and desert @ Pasteleria Marabeza on Ave. Lopez da Silva. One way or the other but for some reason many end up there anyway.
There is a main pizza place where everybody goes to which is right on Ave. Lisboa (Mindelo’s main street) but I thought that I ate better pizza in small pizza/shawarma place near my hotel called Le Flostel where I also very much enjoyed their shawarma. Still many locals would tell you that the best pizza in town is at some place in bad part of town. I’m not sure exactly of the name but Italia or Napoli something or other. Ask around and maybe take a cab, especially if you get a local garotta to show you around. I never got to go there because initially I just didn’t know it existed and when I returned from spending 5 days on Santo Antao I was too busy with Carnival. But that would be 9 or so days from today.
Say “no” to “garden view”!
I landed in Mindelo late Sunday night and made it to my hotel hungry like you know what. Residential Jenny is a good middle of the road hotel but that is only if you get a room with a view. Because a room with view is a suite of two rooms separated by full bathroom. The suite also has a nice sit-in balcony with a view to die for. Now there are also much cheaper rooms with “garden view” that are neither suites not have outside windows let alone balcony.
As I mentioned earlier, be aware and beware, for “garden view” in Cape Verdean means no outside windows.
Say “no” to hunger!
The minute I checked in the hunger drove me out. It was 11pm Sunday night and Mindelo was as though on shut down. Two weeks from today 11pm would be considered “children’s time” but not yet, not yet on Sunday night anyway. I walked down Ave. Marginal, or Mindelo’s empty shoreline and eventually made it to the city’s main street, called Rua Lisboa whose name I think had just been changed to Rua Libertad d’Africa but for the purposes of this narrative I’d continue to refer to it as Rua Lisboa.
I didn’t realize that it was Valentine’s day and whatever was open was jam packed with waiting lines for hours. I soon realized that tonight I’m going to sleep hungry and turned back to return to my hotel.
Do you wanna fuck under the moonlight… or Fuck…? Yea!
It wasn’t long before I heard somebody hauling me, and before I knew I had a semi-ok looking flat chested worn out 40 year old Mindelo experience gently squeezing my balls while whispering sweet nothings into my ear a la “how about you take me to your room for the night for 2000, i.e. 20€.
Alright, let’s talk. We talked a bit. She felt my dick and I felt her pussy. I sucked on her receptive lips and we continued doing pretty much the same in my hotel. She was your typical two children at home and no work Cape Verdean experience. We hung out on the balcony for a bit overlooking empty Ave. Marginal then suddenly I had a revelation. I turned her around, bent her over, lifted up her dress and stuck it between her thighs. She looked back at me encouragingly quaking and squealing as for next 10 minutes I was enjoying her from behind for the whole of Mindelo to see. Thank God that 99.9% of Mindelo was already sound asleep.
We moved to the bed and continued there until both of us were ready to sleep. Her BBBJ skills were very much up to par. She fucked well ever eager to wrap her cunt around my dick either via cowgirl, or trying to sway around her hips and fuck back while in missionary. Her “love you forever, could I be your guide while you’re here, and you can fuck me all you want” skills weren’t as persuasive. I wasn’t looking for steady fuck, not this time around and not with her anyway.
Don’t ask me for her name. I don’t remember. She’s always out there on Marginal: skinny, flat, 35-40 or so, mulatta with her hair in a bun.
Next morning she wanted to stay but I needed my freedom back. I’d see her many times in the center of Mindelo but I’d no longer allow it to go any farther. For that I’d have reasons because soon I’d meet a German girl I knew back in Fogo and would mostly hang out with her. Eventually she’d hook me up with Leo and he would wind up being my great friend, great contact and great person to know in Mindelo.
A bit about Leo
Leo was from Senegal. Just like many Senegalese Leo came to Cape Verde in search for a better life and have been trying to do his best ever since. He dreamily talks about one day opening a hotel and his young daughter back in the old country that he dreams to make life easy for. Leo speaks English, German, French and local. He is one of few non-Cape Verdeans to make it as tour guide there and have been taking groups around Cape Verde as well as to Senegal for years. A German girl who introduced me to Leo knew of him from Germany where he was recommended to her by one of her countrymen. Leo was his tour guide on Cape Verde.
Leo also would get you pussy in Mindelo. Moreover, I suspect that if you have Leo show you around the country that besides helping you out with tourist stuff, Leo’d be able to find you some choice pussy on whichever island you visit. Don’t quote me on that but I’m drawing that conclusion based on experience I had with him in Mindelo as well as on what that German girl told me she heard back in Germany about Leo’s abilities as guide.
For next 5 days I hanged out mostly with that German girl and to the lesser extent with Leo. At the time because of the German girl I avoided bringing up to Leo the topic of pussy. Have some regrets in that regard now.
Grab that street pussy!
It was apparent that I won’t be fucking the German girl though and that was fine because we were obviously in semi-friends zone with neither wanting benefits of the other. I stayed on St. Vincent for 4 more days basically chilling. One night I picked up a young super talkative black girl on the intersection of 5 de Julho and Rua Christiano Sena Barcelos where hookers usually hang out. Not bad looking, nice body, nice rack. She wanted me to take her to my hotel then to Santo Antao, then probably home like to home home. We went to Le Flostel for pizza, which, btw, I highly recommend, and in one hour she managed to talk more than I did during my whole trip to Cape Verde and I’m not prone to silence too. So after feeling her up a bit and sucking on her lips and tits in some dark corner I gave her 3€ and went home alone.
Next day I was leaving Mindelo and Sao Vicente to spend 4-5 days on the island of Santo Antao. I’ll talk a bit about this trip in later chapters. I returned from Santo Antao to find myself in the middle of Carnival and to experience one of the most erotic experiences of my life. If I would be at least 40 it would’ve been even more memorable. Read on.